Short answer: permanent makeup needs two types of numbing. Primary is a cream with lidocaine and prilocaine, applied to intact skin under film before the procedure. Secondary is a gel, often with tetracaine and epinephrine, used on already open skin during the session. Brows work with the standard routine, lips need epinephrine because of how much the zone bleeds, and eyelids and the lash line need a separate, gentle cream. Here is how to choose numbing by zone, plus the mistakes that ruin results.

In short: brows, primary cream under film, plus a secondary gel for longer sessions. Lips, only products with epinephrine, the zone bleeds easily. Eyelids and the lash line, a special eye-area cream, a thin layer, no contact with the mucous membrane.
Infographic: PMU numbing by zone. Brows, primary cream, plus gel if needed. Lips, epinephrine required. Eyelids and lash line, special cream, thin layer. Any zone during work, secondary gel on open skin only
PMU numbing is chosen by zone: brows, lips and eyelids each need a different formula and application.

What numbing is needed for permanent makeup

PMU on brows, lips and eyelids uses two numbing stages, and they solve different tasks. Primary numbing prepares the skin before work starts, secondary numbing keeps the area comfortable while the artist is already working.

  • Primary (before the procedure). A cream with lidocaine and prilocaine. Applied in a thick layer to intact, unbroken skin and covered with film, the hold time varies by product and is set by that product's instructions.
  • Secondary (during the procedure). A gel, often with tetracaine and epinephrine. Applied to already open, micro-traumatized skin right during the session, it works faster than a primary cream.

In practice, PMU artists often use both stages one after another: primary cream prepares the zone in advance, secondary gel keeps numbing going during work. What to pick and in which formula depends on the zone, so brows, lips and eyelids are covered separately below. For the general terms, and how to tell a primary product from a secondary one by formula rather than by name, see the separate guide: primary vs secondary numbing cream.

Primary and secondary numbing for PMU: the practical difference

The difference between the stages is not strength, it is when and on which skin the product goes on. Here is how that plays out in permanent makeup work:

  Primary Secondary
Form cream gel
Where to apply intact, unbroken skin open skin during work
When before the procedure, under film during the session
Key ingredients lidocaine + prilocaine tetracaine, often with epinephrine
Role in PMU preps the zone, lowers sensitivity before work starts keeps numbing going, reduces bleeding

The product name alone does not tell you if it is primary or secondary, that comes from the formula and directions on the product page. The full application order, hold time under film, and the common mistakes that make numbing "not work" are covered separately: how to apply numbing cream.

Numbing for brows

Brow PMU works with the standard routine, no special formula requirements: skin here is denser and less sensitive than on lips or eyelids. Primary cream goes under film before the procedure, and for longer or more sensitive sessions a secondary gel is added.

For a full formula breakdown and product picks for other procedures, including tattoo and hair removal, see: which numbing cream for which procedure.

Numbing for lips

Lip PMU needs a product with epinephrine in the formula. Lips are a mucous, heavily vascularized zone, and without a vasoconstrictor the area bleeds a lot, pigment settles unevenly and holds less well.

Important: do not use a numbing product without a vasoconstrictor on lips. Without epinephrine the zone bleeds heavily, work takes longer, and it is harder on the client.

Numbing for eyelids and the lash line

Eyelids and the lash line only take a special eye-area cream, regular body creams are not made for this zone. Eyelid skin is the thinnest on the face, with the eye's mucous membrane right next to it, so the product goes on in a thin layer with strict avoidance of eye contact.

Per the directions for Eye Anesthetic Cream, the order is: clean the eyelid with a mucous-safe antiseptic, place a small piece of cotton pad under the eyelid, then apply the cream while avoiding any contact with the eye itself. The full application technique by zone, with common mistakes, is covered here: how to apply numbing cream.

Rule of thumb: the lash line and eyelids do not tolerate a regular cream or gel applied by guesswork. Only a product built for the eye area works here, and only in a minimal amount.

Common mistakes and safety

  • Skipping the sensitivity test. Do a patch test on the client before first use, especially before lip and eyelid work.
  • Applying primary cream to broken skin. Primary products are made for intact skin, on open or traumatized skin a secondary gel is used instead.
  • Over- or under-timing the film. Each product needs the hold time set in its own directions, going either way changes the result.
  • Using the wrong product for the zone. A body cream on eyelids, or an anesthetic without epinephrine on lips, are common causes of weak numbing or extra bleeding.
  • Missing contraindications. Some product lines list pregnancy and breastfeeding as contraindications, confirm this before the procedure.

Every product in the line is professional cosmetics for external use, not a medicinal drug, and is meant for a trained artist to apply, not for self-use. The full range is in the numbing products category, and what the numbers in series names like TKTX 40, 75 and 99.9 mean is covered in a separate article on TKTX.

Frost Line secondary anaesthetic gel for permanent makeup, box and 30 ml tube held in a black-gloved hand

Pigments and cartridges for the same procedure

Besides numbing for PMU, the It's Beauty catalog carries pigments and cartridges for brows, lips and eyelids. Build a set for your specific zone.

Biotek pigments   Mast Pro cartridges

Frequently asked questions

Is there a numbing product without lidocaine?
Yes, the range includes separate products without lidocaine, built on alternative numbing ingredients. This is an option for clients who cannot tolerate lidocaine or prilocaine. Check the exact formula on the product page, and still run a patch test before first use.
How long should numbing cream stay under film?
It depends on the product, usually between 10 and 60 minutes. For delicate zones like the eyelids, use a minimal amount and follow the product's own directions rather than a general rule. The full breakdown by product is in the guide on applying numbing cream.
Can a secondary numbing product go on intact skin?
No. Secondary gel is built for already open, micro-traumatized skin during the procedure. On intact skin it works far weaker or not at all, intact skin needs a primary cream under film instead.
How is lip numbing different from brow numbing?
The key difference is the formula: lips need epinephrine because the zone is heavily vascularized and bleeds without a vasoconstrictor. For brows this is not critical, the skin there is denser and less sensitive, so a standard primary cream works without strict formula requirements.
  • Product formulas are given per manufacturer and distributor data used across the It's Beauty catalog. Always check the exact formula and directions for a specific product on its page.
  • This material is informational and does not replace a specialist's advice. All products are for professional external use.