Short answer: you choose an anesthetic by the procedure, not by its "strength." Three things decide it: which skin you are working on (intact or already open), how sensitive and well-supplied with blood the area is, and how long the session lasts. Below we break it down procedure by procedure and show which products in stock fit each one.

In brief: for tattoo and permanent makeup, masters usually use a pair: a primary cream under film before the work, plus a secondary gel during it. For lips, a product with epinephrine is essential, because the area bleeds readily. For mesotherapy and hair removal, a primary cream under film is enough. For eyelids, only a special cream made for the eye area.

What the choice depends on

Before you look at brands and percentages, answer three questions. They are what determine the product.

  • Stage of work. Preparing intact skin before the procedure means a primary cream under film. Numbing already open skin during the work means a secondary gel. We cover this in detail in a separate article.
  • Area. Lips, eyelids and the bikini zone are well supplied with blood and very sensitive. Here epinephrine matters: it constricts the vessels, so there is less bleeding and swelling.
  • Surface area and time. A large area (back, legs, hair removal) means higher usage, so masters take a cream in a large size. A long session means a product that holds its effect longer.
Infographic: which anesthetic for which procedure. Tattoo, permanent makeup of brows and lips, mesotherapy, hair removal, eyelids. For each procedure it shows the suitable product type and the key ingredients in the formula
The product is chosen to match the procedure: the stage of work, the sensitivity of the area and the length of the session.

Tattoo: cream plus gel

A tattoo is a long session on open skin. It is usually done in two stages. First, a thick layer of primary cream under film 20 to 60 minutes beforehand to prepare the skin. Then, once the skin is open, a secondary gel right during the work. Many masters also keep a hemostatic on hand to stop blood and lymph.

A master applies anesthetic cream to a client's skin before a tattoo session
A tattoo runs on open skin: first a primary cream under film, then a gel during the work.

Permanent brows: gentle and precise

Brows are delicate work on a small area. The scheme is the same as for a tattoo, but the zone is calmer than lips. A primary cream under film before the procedure, and a secondary gel during it if needed. Products with lidocaine and prilocaine work well here.

Lips: only with epinephrine

Lips are the most sensitive and best blood-supplied area in permanent makeup. That is exactly why epinephrine in the formula matters here: it constricts the vessels, which means less bleeding and less swelling, and the pigment sits more evenly. Choose products that contain lidocaine with epinephrine, and a secondary gel with epinephrine as well.

For lips, do not use a product without a vasoconstrictor component. Without epinephrine the area bleeds actively, the pigment washes out, and the work takes longer and is harder on the client.
Close-up of a cosmetic procedure on the lips, master wearing gloves
Lips are well supplied with blood and very sensitive, so procedures here call for products with epinephrine.

Mesotherapy and injections: cream under film

Here the skin is intact and the puncture is pinpoint. The goal is simply to reduce sensitivity in advance. A primary cream is enough: apply a thick layer and cover it with film 30 to 60 minutes before the procedure. A gel with epinephrine is not needed here.

Waxing and hair removal: large area

Hair removal means a large area and intact skin, so what matters most is usage and a convenient size. A primary cream under film 30 to 60 minutes before the procedure. For the body, take large jars, it works out more economical.

Cosmetology procedure: an injection into the facial skin, master wearing gloves
Mesotherapy and injections run on intact skin, so it is prepared in advance with a primary cream under film.

Eyelids and the eye area: a separate cream

The eye area has mucous membrane nearby, so ordinary creams are not suitable here. For procedures on the eyelids there is a special cream designed specifically for this zone.

Laser tattoo removal and microneedling: a dense cream

Laser and microneedling are intensive procedures on intact skin. Here masters use a primary cream and apply it under film in advance. Dense creams with a high content of active ingredient are suitable.

Table: procedure and product

Procedure Stage and form What matters in the formula Examples in stock
Tattoo cream before + gel during lidocaine + prilocaine; gel with epinephrine White Caine, A-CAINE; Sustaine, Blue Caine
Permanent brows cream before + gel during lidocaine + prilocaine A-CAINE, F&E 10%; Blue Caine
Lips cream before + gel during epinephrine essential A-CAINE, B-CAINE; Sustaine, Emmeline
Mesotherapy, injections cream under film before lidocaine + prilocaine Depain, Pink Caine, Dr. Numb
Hair removal cream under film before, large size lidocaine + prilocaine Depain 500 g, B-CAINE 500 g
Eyelids, eye area special cream formula for the eyelid area Eye Anesthetic Cream
Laser, microneedling dense cream under film before high content of active ingredient Goosica, TKTX 75, J-CAINE
How to read this: the procedure names in product descriptions do not always match word for word, but the logic is the same. Look at the stage (before or during), the area (whether epinephrine is needed) and the form (cream or gel). Always verify the exact formula breakdown on the product page.

Three mistakes worth avoiding

  • Starting with a gel on intact skin. A secondary gel is designed for skin that is already open. Without occlusion, on intact skin the active ingredient barely penetrates, so preparation starts with a primary cream under film, and the gel comes in only during the work.
  • Skimping on the formula for lips. Lips are well supplied with blood, and without a vasoconstrictor component the area bleeds actively and the pigment fixes less well. For this area, choose products whose formula contains epinephrine.
  • Using a universal cream on the eyelids. Eyelid skin is thin, with mucous membrane nearby, so ordinary creams are not suitable for this area. Here you use only a product intended for the area around the eyes.

Find the product for your procedure

In the It's Beauty catalog, every anesthetic comes with its formula, type and documents. Creams and gels for tattoo, permanent makeup, mesotherapy and hair removal, more than 40 items in stock.

Go to the anesthetics catalog

Frequently asked questions

Which anesthetic to choose for a tattoo?
For a tattoo, masters usually use two products: a primary cream under film before the session to prepare the skin, and a secondary gel during the work on open skin. The primary one is lidocaine with prilocaine, the secondary gel is often with epinephrine.
Which anesthetic is best for permanent lip makeup?
For lips, choose products with epinephrine in the formula. Lips are well supplied with blood, and epinephrine constricts the vessels, so there is less bleeding and swelling and the pigment sits more evenly. Creams with lidocaine and epinephrine before the procedure and a secondary gel with epinephrine during it are suitable.
How to numb before mesotherapy?
In mesotherapy the skin is intact, so a primary cream is enough. Apply it in a thick layer and cover with film 30 to 60 minutes before the procedure. A gel with epinephrine is not needed here.
Which anesthetic for hair removal?
For hair removal, use a primary cream under film 30 to 60 minutes before the procedure. Since the area is large, a big size is more convenient and more economical.
Can you numb the eyelids with an ordinary cream?
No. The eye area has mucous membrane nearby, so ordinary creams are not suitable here. For procedures on the eyelids, use a special cream designed specifically for this zone.
How do I tell which anesthetic fits my procedure?
Answer three questions: are you working on intact or open skin, is the area sensitive and does it need epinephrine, is the area large and is the session long. The answers will point you to the form and formula. Check the exact breakdown on the product page.

If you want to go deeper into strength and formula, read our breakdowns: the full guide to choosing an anesthetic, what the percentages mean and primary or secondary.

  • Recommendations by procedure are given based on the intended use from the descriptions, labels and data of manufacturers and distributors. Check the exact formula and method of application on the product page.
  • This material is for informational purposes and does not replace a specialist consultation. All products are for professional external use.